Life Changing Udon Noodles is one of many accessible yet modern Asian-inspired recipes from Hetty McKinnon's “To Asia, With Love” (Prestel Publishing).

While fall is typically peak cookbook season, this spring unleashed a flurry of exciting titles. Several new Middle Eastern and East Asian books are particularly strong, alongside beautiful dives into cuisines underrepresented in the mainstream cookbook world, such as Gullah Geechee and Colombian. We got fresh titles from popular names like Hetty McKinnon, known for recipes in all of the biggest food publications, as well as Bay Area chefs like David Kinch of Michelin-starred Manresa. While we may be seduced by restaurants reopening and the thrill of a vaccinated summer, we’re still looking for inspiration in the kitchen — and these eight new books do the trick.

In the interest of spreading praise for more books, we left off some Bay Area titles that we covered earlier this year: “Mister Jiu’s in Chinatown,” an ode to the classic San Francisco neighborhood ; “Eat Plants Every Day,” the ambitious vegan cookbook from the chef of San Francisco’s Wildseed ; and “The Flour Craft Bakery & Cafe Cookbook,” a collection of detailed gluten-free recipes from the Marin County staple . These cookbooks also come highly recommended.

Cover of the cookbook “The Arabesque Table” by Reem Kassis.

Reem Kassis’ latest cookbook gives readers a snapshot of the kinds of dishes that might come out of a typical modern Arab home kitchen: a “lazy person’s” dish of garlic yogurt spaghetti; a Sudan-inspired salad of tomatoes, cucumber and peanut butter; and a contemporary take on fatteh featuring pan-fried shiitake mushrooms and yogurt sauce. Recipes like Kassis’ grandmother’s lamb and halloumi pasta bake, made with bucatini and oozing with mozzarella, highlight the rich and multicultural foodways of the Arab world. Each recipe headnote provides ample historical and cultural context for the dishes, making them exciting to read in themselves. — S.H.

“The Arabesque Table: Contemporary Recipes From the Arab World” by Reem Kassis (Phaidon; $39.95; 256 pages).

“At Home in the Kitchen: Simple Recipes From a Chef’s Night Off” by David Kinch with Devin Fuller is one of spring’s strongest Bay Area cookbooks.

At Home in the Kitchen

This is not a Manresa cookbook — thank goodness. Instead, chef David Kinch shares simple go-to recipes using easy-to-find ingredients that he makes on his days off. Pantry staples like canned sardines get prime billing alongside family favorites like chicken and eggs. Many dishes showcase Kinch’s affinity for the cuisines of Spain and New Orleans — and his love of entertaining friends in his Santa Cruz home, with a good chunk of recipes intended to feed groups. The results — such as the penne in a creamy white walnut sauce or the Catalan-style kale with apples and salty ham — are not always mind-blowing, but they’re reliably tasty. Plus, every recipe comes with a photo, most are achievable on weeknights and they’re easy to follow. — J.B.

“At Home in the Kitchen: Simple Recipes From a Chef’s Night Off” by David Kinch with Devin Fuller (Ten Speed Press; $35; 304 pages).

The cover for “Bress ’n’ Nyam: Gullah Geechee Recipes From a Sixth-Generation Farmer” by Matthew Raiford with Amy Paige Condon.

This farm-to-table Gullah Gechee cookbook feels groundbreaking and unusually personal. Chef and author Matthew Raiford fills its pages with stories from his family’s farm, which his great-great-great grandfather purchased in 1874. It’s a heartfelt portrayal of this underrepresented section of the U.S.: the coastal South, where descendants of enslaved Africans still live, speak the Gullah Geechee language and cook dishes like spicy shrimp creole and citrus-scented sweet potatoes. The recipes tell the story of this place: a Lowcountry boil, brimming with live blue crabs, wild Georgia shrimp and sweet corn; shrimp and grits, rich with buttermilk and cream; directions for hosting a full-blown pig roast, including how to rig an underground pit. Some cookbook fans might long for more photos of finished dishes in the book, but they make way for scene-setting shots that transport you to Gillard Farms and its lush moss-covered trees. — J.B.

“Bress ’n’ Nyam: Gullah Geechee Recipes From a Sixth-Generation Farmer” by Matthew Raiford with Amy Paige Condon (Countryman Press; $30; 240 pages).

The cover of “Colombiana: A Rediscovery of Recipes & Rituals from the Soul of Colombia” by Mariana Velásquez.

While Mariana Velásquez has worked on well over 20 cookbooks — including two that took home James Beard Awards — as a food stylist and recipe developer, “Colombiana” is her first to focus on the cuisine of her native country. It’s also advertised as the first major American cookbook dedicated solely to Colombian food. The colorful book combines recipes for traditional dishes and modern interpretations alongside short profiles of Colombian women and detailed tips for entertaining, from the tablecloths to the soundtrack. It’s somewhat eclectic — but also stylish and sophisticated. Her sweet corn arepas, for example, get a flavor boost from manchego cheese instead of the typical mozzarella, plus a burst of tomatoes and avocado on top for freshness. Other dishes are simply inspired by Velásquez’s heritage, like a refreshing and tangy salad of hearts of palm and pomelo. — J.B.

“Colombiana: A Rediscovery of Recipes & Rituals From the Soul of Colombia” by Mariana Velásquez (Harper Wave; $32.50; 304 pages).

Cover of the cookbook “Cook Real Hawai’i” by Sheldon Simeon with Garrett Snyder.

Chef and restaurateur Sheldon Simeon has penned a thoughtful and personal look at the food culture of Hawaii, with recipes that reflect the many cultures that swirled together on the islands over the years: native Hawaiian, Chinese, Portuguese, Filipino and the rest. For Simeon, “real Hawai‘i” is a salad bowl, or chop suey, of all of those influences, reflected in recipes like baking-pan sushi casserole, parrotfish steamed with ginger and lap cheong, and a crave-worthy chip dip made with soy sauce, mayo and sesame seeds. You’ll also be able to master the classics, like mochiko chicken and poke, which gets its own detailed how-to guide. Thankfully, you don’t need to be on the islands to make these recipes: Simeon has written them with mainland grocery stores in mind. — S.H.

“Cook Real Hawai‘i” by Sheldon Simeon with Garrett Snyder (Clarkson Potter; $35; 304 pages).

“Mother Grains: Recipes for the Grain Revolution” by Roxana Jullapat is an unusually educational baking book.

The most educational baking book so far this year, “Mother Grains” is a celebration of ancient grains like barley, buckwheat, rye and sorghum. Roxana Jullapat, co-owner of Los Angeles bakery Friends & Family, takes readers on a tour of each grain, outlining its history alongside nutritional facts and storing tips. And, of course, there are recipes that showcase each grain’s natural flavor. Most recipes are simple and inviting, like oatmeal cookies, chewy and butterscotchy with dates, and a formidable gluten-free carrot cake, extra sweet from sorghum flour. Note: While many of these ancient grains are gluten-free, this book contains only a handful of gluten-free recipes. Instead, Jullapat typically combines these grains with wheat flour to create the best possible texture. — J.B.

“Mother Grains: Recipes for the Grain Revolution” by Roxana Jullapat (W.W. Norton & Company; $40; 352 pages).

Cover of the cookbook “Rodney Scott’s World of BBQ” by Rodney Scott and Lolis Eric Elie.

Rodney Scott’s World of BBQ

South Carolina pitmaster Rodney Scott has graciously let the masses in on his barbecue secrets, hard-earned through countless years of toil over smoky hardwood embers. For one, he uses MSG in his multipurpose rib rub to amp up its savoriness, the genius. The book’s lengthy introduction takes us through Scott’s childhood in the South, with descriptive vignettes about harvesting tobacco on his family’s farm at 6 years old and reluctantly learning how to smoke whole hogs with his father when he was in middle school. “Building a pit is also not hard,” Scott writes in his first “recipe” for a barbecue pit — you just need seven 48-inch lengths of rebar, 62 cinder blocks and a couple of other things from around the house. (Store-bought is fine.) I tried out the recipes on a Traeger wood pellet grill, which worked wonderfully with only slight adjustments for timing. While a whole hog might not be within your scope, smaller-scale recipes, like smoked prime rib and hoppin’ John, abound. — S.H.

“Rodney Scott’s World of BBQ: Every Day is a Good Day” by Rodney Scott and Lolis Eric Elie (Clarkson Potter; $29.99; 224 pages).

"To Asia, With Love" by Hetty McKinnon is one of the best cookbooks of 2021 so far.

You’ll likely find yourself constantly reaching for the latest book from Hetty McKinnon, also author of best-selling cookbook “Family” and known for recipes on Epicurious and the New York Times. “To Asia With Love” is full of modern yet practical vegetarian recipes inspired by McKinnon’s Chinese mother: bountiful noodles, textural salads, eggy wonders and speedy sides. The vibe is nostalgic and dreamy, captured through photography shot entirely on film — a rarity in today’s cookbook world. Her recipes are designed to be accessible for everyday cooking, and advice for ingredient swaps in every recipe makes last-minute trips to the store unnecessary. While eggs are prominent in the book — such as a standout steamed egg custard that emerges perfectly silky and wobbly — most recipes include tips for veganizing. Tips like these make the entire book a riffable pleasure. — J.B.

“To Asia, With Love: Everyday Asian Recipes and Stories From the Heart” by Hetty McKinnon (Prestel Publishing; $35; 256 pages).

Janelle Bitker and Soleil Ho are San Francisco Chronicle staff writers. Email: janelle.bitker@sfchronicle.com and soleil.ho@sfchronicle.com

Steamed egg custard from "To Asia, With Love" by Hetty McKinnon (Prestel Publishing).

Savory egg custard, steamed until soft and silky, is a classic Cantonese comfort. In “To Asia, With Love” (Prestel Publishing), Hetty McKinnon explains that it’s surprisingly tricky to get right given its short ingredient list and seemingly simple technique. The key is using cooled boiled water — similar to tepid tap water — to fully combine with the egg, plus low heat and patience. Top simply with a little soy sauce, sesame oil and sliced scallions, or enjoy it unadorned with white rice on the side.

½ cup boiled water, cooled until it’s just warm (not hot) to the touch

Soy sauce, sesame oil, sliced scallions, cilantro leaves and/or sesame seeds, for topping (optional)

Beat the eggs in a mixing bowl until the whites and yolks are completely blended. Place the bowl on a tea towel (to stop it from moving around) and slowly add the water in a steady stream, whisking constantly. Add ½ teaspoon of sea salt and whisk vigorously until the mixture is very well combined.

Place a steaming rack or trivet in a saucepan (make sure it will hold the bowl you will steam the custard in), then add water until it is just underneath the rack. Bring the water to the boil.

Pour the egg mixture through a sieve into a shallow heatproof bowl (the one McKinnon uses is about 7 inches wide). Once the water has reached a rolling boil, place the bowl on the steaming rack or trivet. Cover with a lid, and immediately reduce the heat to the lowest temperature possible.

Allow to steam for about 10 minutes, then lift the lid to see if the egg has set in the middle. If not, cover again and steam for another minute or so until it is set with a slight wobble. When the egg is ready, turn off the heat and leave the egg to sit, covered, for 5 minutes before removing.

Serve warm just as is, or with your chosen toppings, but always with rice.

Arepa de Choclo, a sweet corn arepa loaded with cheese, from “Colombiana” by Mariana Velásquez (Harper Wave).

There are a number of arepa recipes in Mariana Velásquez’s cookbook “Colombiana” (Harper Wave), but these sweet, cheesy arepas are an excellent starting point. Velásquez uses manchego instead of mozzarella for extra flavor and tops the corn cakes with a refreshing salad to both cut through the richness and make the dish feel like an appropriate meal any time of day. Make sure your griddle is piping hot so you get a crusty outer layer on the arepas.

1 cup sweet yellow corn kernels

1 cup pre-cooked yellow cornmeal or Masa Arepa

1 cup quesito or fresh ricotta cheese

½ cup grated Manchego or Parmesan cheese

3 tablespoons butter, melted, plus 2 tablespoons

For the raw tomato and avocado salad

2 cups ripe cherry tomatoes, halved crosswise

2 Hass avocados, pitted, peeled and cubed

Flaky salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 ounces quesito or queso fresco, crumbled

Grind the corn in a food processor until the kernels break apart and the mixture is smooth. Transfer the ground corn to a large bowl and add the cornmeal, sugar, flour, baking powder, salt, ricotta cheese and Manchego cheese. Using a wooden spoon, mix the ingredients to combine. Add the 3 tablespoons butter and the milk and stir until the mixture comes together. Do not overmix. In the beginning, your mixture will look like a very loose pancake batter. Don’t fret, the cornmeal will take a few minutes to absorb the liquid and achieve a better consistency. Allow the dough to rest for 10 to 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare the raw tomato and avocado salad: In a medium bowl, combine the tomatoes and avocados. Add the lemon juice and olive oil and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside.

Preheat a large cast-iron skillet or griddle over medium-high heat. Melt the 2 tablespoons butter until bubbles form. Measure ½ cup of the batter and pour into the pan, pancake style. You can fry the arepas 2 at a time or more, depending on the size of your skillet. Do not crowd the skillet. Cook the arepas until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes per side. You may need to turn down the heat as you go so that the pan doesn’t get too hot from batch to batch. Place the finished arepas on the baking sheet and keep warm in the oven. Repeat with the remaining batter.

To serve, plate each arepa and top with a spoonful of the tomato and avocado salad, the crumbled quesito and cilantro leaves.

Smaller than a whole hog, chickens are ideal for an aspiring barbecue master with less space to work with. Rodney Scott’s technique, outlined in detail in “Rodney Scott’s World of BBQ” (Clarkson Potter), isn’t complicated but it’ll generate juicy birds that you can either serve straight or mix into other dishes, like salad or Scott’s one-pot chicken perloo.

2 whole chickens (3 to 4 pounds each), spatchcocked and halved through the breastplate

Fire up your grill to between 225 and 250 degrees F.

Sprinkle the chickens on all sides with the rib rub. Place the chicken onto the hot grill, bone-side down. Close and cook until the bone sides are nicely browned, about 1 hour and 30 minutes, being careful to maintain a steady grilling temperature between 225 and 250 degrees F.

Mop the skin side with the sauce, then flip the chickens and mop the bone side with sauce as well. Close and cook until the thickest part of the thigh reaches 165°F, about 1 hour.

Mop the chickens once more. Take them off the grill and allow them to rest for 5 minutes before serving.

½ cup Diamond Crystal kosher salt

¼ cup freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup packed light brown sugar

Mix all of the ingredients and place them in an airtight container. Cover and store in a cool dry place until ready to use. Makes two cups.

In a small stockpot, warm the vinegar over medium-high heat. After about 5 minutes, when the vinegar reaches 150 degrees F on an instant-read thermometer, just before it starts to simmer, add the lemon slices and continue to cook until the lemon peels begin to soften and wilt, about 10 minutes more.

Whisk in the black pepper, cayenne, pepper flakes, and sugar. Continue to cook over medium-high heat until the sugar is completely dissolved and the sauce reaches 190 degrees F, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to completely cool before using. Makes 1 gallon. Once the lemon is removed, the sauce can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 8 weeks.

In “Cook Real Hawai’i” (Clarkson Potter), Sheldon Simeon compares shoyu dip to the islands’ equivalent of ranch dressing: served at family get-togethers and casual hangouts with chips, crackers and cut raw vegetables. Lemon-infused olive oil keeps it from tasting too heavy, and a topping of pan-toasted sesame seeds with sugar and salt gives each bite a snacky, earthy crunch.

2 teaspoons Lemon Olive Oil (recipe follows)

1½ teaspoons finely grated lemon zest (from 1 lemon)

2 pounds assorted vegetables (see Note), cut into 3-inch spears, for serving

In a small bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, shoyu, lemon oil, lemon zest, and 2 teaspoons of the sesame oil. Season to taste with pepper and transfer the mixture to a serving bowl. Drizzle with the remaining 1 teaspoon sesame oil.

Heat a small nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the sesame seeds, sugar, and salt. Cook, stirring constantly, until the sugar has melted and has caramelized around the sesame seeds, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove this from the pan to a plate, let cool, then crush it up and sprinkle over the dip. Serve with your assortment of vegetables.

Note: Eat the dip with whatever vegetables are on hand—carrots, radishes, watercress, green beans, cabbage, celery, tomatoes, broccoli, cauliflower, asparagus, eggplant, squash, etc.—either raw, blanched, steamed, or roasted. Chill them before serving.

For the lemon olive oil

4 lemons, thoroughly scrubbed in hot water

Peel the lemon zest in long strips with a vegetable peeler, making sure to avoid the bitter white pith. (Reserve the lemon flesh and juice for another use.) Combine the zest strips and olive oil in a saucepan and simmer over very low heat for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. If any bubbles appear, even on the side of the pan, reduce the heat or briefly remove the pan from the heat. Let the oil cool to room temperature while the zest strips are left in to steep (about an hour will do). Strain out the zest and transfer the lemon oil to a clean jar or sealable container. Makes two cups. Store in a cool, dark place. The oil will keep for about 1 month on the shelf, or for several months in the fridge (just be sure to bring it up to room temperature before using).

“Fatteh, derived from an old Arabic verb meaning ‘to break bread and steep in liquid,’ is a common dish across the Middle East,” author Reem Kassis writes in “The Arabesque Table” (Phaidon). It’s a dish that can take lots of different toppings and sauces, though she was skeptical when she first tried this mushroom version at Moona, a Boston restaurant. But the sizzled mushrooms are a brilliant bridge between the sweetness of honey and pomegranate molasses and the sharp bite of shallot and garlic.

2 large or 4 small thin pita breads in ¾-inch squares (6 ounces or 2½ generous cups)

2 to 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 small clove garlic, crushed in a garlic press

¼ cup (2 fl ounces) olive oil

10½ ounces shiitake mushrooms, stemmed, caps chopped into bite-size pieces

1½ pound mushrooms (a combination of portobello, cremini/chestnut, or any variety), chopped into bite-size pieces

1 can (14 ounces) chickpeas, drained and rinsed

½ cup coarsely chopped toasted walnut pieces

  Small bunch of dill fronds

  Crushed chile flakes or pomegranate seeds (optional)

To bake the pita chips: Preheat the oven to 350 degree F. Arrange the pita bread pieces on a baking sheet. Bake, moving the bread around from time to time, until the squares are completely dry and crisp and starting to darken in color, 20-30 minutes. Remove and set aside. (This step can be done a couple of days in advance and the bread stored in an airtight container or a zipseal plastic food bag.)

To make the yogurt sauce: In a bowl, stir together the yogurt, tahini, lemon juice, garlic, and salt. Set aside.

To prepare the mushrooms: In a large frying pan, heat the olive oil and butter over medium-high heat. Add the shallot and fry, stirring, until translucent and starting to brown, 3-5 minutes. Add the garlic and 1 teaspoon of the salt and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the shiitake mushrooms and cook for 1 minute. Add the remaining mushrooms and remaining 1 teaspoon salt and cook until tender but retaining some bite, about 5 minutes. If the mushrooms release some liquid that is perfectly fine, you do not need to cook until it evaporates, only until the mushrooms are tender. Pour in the pomegranate molasses and honey, give one final good stir, then add the chickpeas and cook for 1 minute to heat through. Remove from the heat.

To assemble the dish: This dish can be served on one large platter or on individual plates. Place the bread at the bottom of the serving platter/plates. Top with the mushroom mixture. Pour the yogurt sauce on top and sprinkle with the toasted walnuts and dill. If desired, sprinkle with chile flakes or pomegranate seeds. Serve immediately to retain the crunchiness of the bread.

Note: Ideally, this is made with pure pomegranate molasses that does not have any added sugar. But if you are making this with a brand that happens to have sugar, leave out the honey.

Janelle Bitker spearheads The San Francisco Chronicle's Food & Wine department. She joined the newspaper in 2019 as a food enterprise reporter, covering restaurants as well as Bay Area culture through a food lens. Previously, she served as a reporter for Eater SF, managing editor at the East Bay Express, and arts & culture editor at the Sacramento News & Review. Her writing has been recognized by the California Newspaper Publishers Association and Association of Alternative Newsmedia.

Since 2019, Soleil Ho has been The Chronicle's Restaurant Critic, spearheading Bay Area restaurant recommendations through the flagship Top Restaurants series. Ho also writes features and cultural commentary, specializing in the ways that our food reflects the way we live. Their essay on pandemic fine dining domes was featured in the 2021 Best American Food Writing anthology. Ho also hosts The Chronicle's food podcast, Extra Spicy, and has a weekly newsletter called Bite Curious. Previously, Ho worked as a freelance food and pop culture writer, as a podcast producer on the Racist Sandwich, and as a restaurant chef. Illustration courtesy of Wendy Xu.